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A well–seasoned cast–iron griddle is essential for broiling fish (don’t use that wavy broiler pan that came with your oven for broiling fish: it’s designed for meat). Preheated well under the broiler, the griddle sears the bottom of the fish while the broiler cooks from the top down. And since it has a flat surface, it’s easy to remove the fish when it’s cooked. Some griddles are double-sided. The flip side, with ridges, is what you want for stovetop grilling.

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OYSTER STEW
8 tbsp (1 stick) unsalted butter
4 C whole milk
1 C heavy cream
Coarse salt and freshly ground white pepper
Tabasco sauce
1 pint shucked oysters, with their liquor
Oyster crackers
Melt the butter in a wide saucepan over medium heat. Add the milk and cream and bring to a simmer. Season well with salt, white pepper and Tabasco (remember, you’re putting in the Tabasco so you can taste it, so don’t be shy), then add the oysters and their liquor. Cook just until the edges of the oysters curl; they’ll look like ruffled petticoats.
Serve hot, with plenty of oyster crackers.
There is something completely satisfying about this simple lunchtime soup. Shucked oysters make preparing it a snap!
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